Today’s True Town’s post reveals some of my favorite Beaufort County, NC photo haunts in two beautiful port towns, Washington and Bath. Photos in this post were taken across the past decade, and I’m delighted to report that little has changed in that time. Both places remain pristine and timeless. For a wonderful weekend of photo-sleuthing, I highly recommend this route.
This town was founded in the year 1776. They named it after a man who was already establishing a reputation as a great American. He later became known as the Father of Our Country and had a much larger town named in his honor, but for the historical record, the port city of Washington, North Carolina claimed his name before anyone else.
North Carolina's "Inner Banks" are blessed with beauty. Broad rivers that have seen the centuries come and go stretch their arms wide through a green world of tobacco, old oaks and pine on their way to the sea.
Places like Washington, NC cling to the past, not out of necessity but as an act of love. With a deep bow of respect to all who came before them, they survive to remind us that new isn't always best, and that true beauty knows no age.
Today’s post guides you along the Pamlico River from Washington to Bath, two towns that are roughly 20 miles apart, highlighting some great locations for photo opportunities along the way.
The little church at Mason’s Landing on Tranter’s Creek just outside Washington is a must-see first stop if you’re coming into town on Highway 264. Turn right on Clark’s Neck Road and look for the Old Primitive Baptist Church on your right just before you get to Mason’s Landing on the left. There will not be a sign at the church. If you cross the Tar River Bridge, you have gone too far. This lovely old place was moved here for safe keeping many years ago from an in-town location that now boasts a parking lot, but if you ask me, this new location suits it just fine. The building sits back off the road to your right, so be alert.
Once in town, Washington’s waterfront, pictured at the top of this post, offers an abundance of great views and plenty of parking and greenway space because it is a waterfront park. While you are parked there, be sure to stroll through the downtown area, whose old commercial buildings include the original Beaufort County Courthouse on the SW corner of Market and West 2nd, the old firehouse on the west side of N Market, and the US Post Office at 103 E 2nd. As well, the downtown core contains dozens of beautiful old residences, churches, and storefronts, so have fun.
One small residential area that you don’t want to miss is bounded by West Main, Hackney Avenue, West 3rd Street and Bridge Street. Within this area, on the corner of West 2nd and Washington Street sits Hollyday House, a pretty old Italianate house dating to the mid-1800’s. It is hard to photograph because of dense screening of shrubs and trees, and I do not recommend encroaching on their lawn for a better view, but there are a couple of opportunities from along the sidewalk on West 2nd Street.
The undisputed belle of the ball, however, is Elmwood, Washington’s largest residence, which sits at 731 West Main.
The earliest portions of Elmwood were possibly built in the first quarter of the 19th century, but later additions bring it squarely into Italianate territory of the 1850’s and beyond. Today a luxury bed and breakfast, Elmwood will not disappoint.
Leaving Washington, travel southeast toward Bath, NC. Take Highway 264 and then the right fork onto Highway 92, which leads straight into town. As soon as you cross the bridge over Bath Creek, turn right onto S Main Street, find a parking spot, and enjoy.
This tiny community packs a great big punch in terms of historic scenery, the star of the show being the first house to greet you as you enter the village.
The Palmer-Marsh House, which is open to the public, has stood on the corner of Carteret and South Main for 249 years and counting. And by the way, the town of Bath was already 45 years old by the time this house came along. Bath is the oldest incorporated town in North Carolina, having been incorporated in 1705.
Try not to gasp when you encounter the spectacular double chimney (with windows!) on the east end of Palmer-Marsh. Colossal in size, it measures 17 feet wide. The space between the chimney stacks containing the windows is known as a pent.
Then by all means, take full advantage of the short two or three block stroll down to the small waterfront point at the end of South Main.
Along the way, you will find the circa 1830’s Williams House, also a former residence of Dr. John Tomkins, who founded the NC State Fair.
Further along South Main sits the oldest church building in North Carolina, St. Thomas Episcopal, which was built in 1734.
And if you’re lucky, Bonner House on the corner of South Main and Front Street will be open. It commands one of the best views in the entire town. Legend has it that the former house of the infamous pirate, Blackbeard (whose historical marker appears along S. Main) stood just across the water from this point.
Take your time in Bath. The sense of history here is strong. And before you leave, be sure to pop into tiny Petals and Produce, across the street from Palmer-Marsh, offering plants, fresh produce, and baked goods, as well as loads of charm.
There is more to see in Beaufort County, so please allow yourself time to explore it all. I hope, though, that this has given you enough of a starting point to launch your journey.
Until next time, happy hunting.
Photos by Beth Yarbrough.