If I was a hurricane, I don’t think I would have the heart to mess with a place as beautiful as New Bern, North Carolina, but the one named Florence in 2018 was apparently heartless. A storm surge topping 10 feet flooded this lovely little port city on the Carolina coast, leaving much of the very significant historic district standing in water “up to here”.
Nevertheless, the city held her chin high and survived. These days, there is scarce evidence that anything ever occurred.
New Bern has been an organized settlement since 1710. Founded by Swiss and German settlers and named in honor of Bern, Switzerland, the city contains a collection of historic structures whose architectural styles span three centuries.
Known for its larger-than-normal inventory of urban Federal designs, there are fine examples of Greek Revival, Italianate, Second Empire, and transitional styles here as well. For example, the Charles Slover house, built in 1848, is not only the city’s finest example of Greek Revival style, but also one of the best examples in the entire state. It was later owned by Caleb Bradham, the New Bern druggist who is credited with the invention of Pepsi Cola.
Another example of “finest in the state” is the very elaborate late Georgian house of John Wright Stanly. Built between 1779 and 1783, it was likely designed by architect John Hawks for Stanly - who, by the way, made his living at one point as a blockade runner during the American Revolution.
Continuing the theme of “finest style in the state”, the Federal design of First Presbyterian Church, circa 1819, was quite possibly a product of William Nichols, another architect who not only called New Bern home for a few years, but went on to make a name for himself as one of North Carolina’s most prominent early architects. Nichols is the documented designer of Hayes Farm in Edenton, NC, of which you are already familiar as followers of this page. Additionally, he is credited with many other significant historic structures in the state before leaving North Carolina in 1827 to later become state architect for both Alabama and Mississippi. While there, he designed the original campus of the University of Alabama and later the Mississippi Governor’s Mansion. There is no written documentation to prove that Nichols assisted and advised Uriah Sandy, the builder credited with First Presbyterian in New Bern, but architectural historians say that the telltale architectural signatures, coupled with Nichols residence in New Bern during construction, make his contribution to this structure almost a certainty.
Fast forward a hundred years and the work of another talented New Bern resident takes center stage. Local architect Herbert Woodley Simpson was prolific in many styles, one of which is now known as Southern Colonial. The 1903 residence he designed for lumber magnate William B. Blades, is an inspired combination of late Queen Anne style combined with Colonial Revival elements. The Blades house today is one of the best examples of early 20th century New Bern architecture.
And all this without even a mention of Tryon Palace? In the words of my bff, aka Balki Bartakamous, “of course not, don’t be ridiculous”. New Bern was the very first capital of the State of North Carolina, chosen by Colonial Governor William Tryon in 1765 for its strategic coastal location. Over the next few years, Tryon and English architect John Hawks, collaborated on the design and construction of Tryon Palace, which served as both a capitol building and governor’s residence.
Tryon Palace was destroyed by fire in 1798, but 20th century preservation funding from both private and public sources resulted in the exact replication seen here, which was built over the original foundation using Hawks’ original plans. It is, of course, open to the public.
With such an abundance of architectural riches to choose from, one of my favorite New Bern routes is nonetheless accomplished entirely on foot. The historic district fronting on the Neuse and Trent Rivers is compact enough to allow for one of the loveliest walks on the North Carolina coast and beyond.
The photographs here have only scratched the surface, but I hope that someday soon you will find a sunny afternoon and give yourself the gift of a quiet walk around beautiful, historic New Bern. You will find yourself returning again and again.
Photo of Tryon Palace via Visit New Bern. All other photos by Beth Yarbrough.
Another of my favorite North Carolina towns. We have enjoyed a couple of enjoyable tours of the city, on foot as well as by the trolley. Your pictures are spectacular.
Beautiful photos!