Rosemary Roasted Pecans
Guest Columnist Damon Lee Fowler
We haven’t checked in with our friend, Damon Lee Fowler, recently. Thought you might enjoy his take on a Southern classic - roasted pecans.
No matter who we are or how experienced we are as cooks, rarely do our kitchens remain static. Even the simplest jobs evolve. I've been roasting pecans for half a century, and have included recipes for them in several of my books, but no two are the same. That's because my method has evolved over time as I've tried not only to keep my eyes open to what's happening in the pan, but also keep my ears open to the hundreds of other cooks who've shared what they've learned.
Adding rosemary to the pan began while visiting friend and colleague Wendell Brock. We'd settled on his patio with drinks and a bowl of roasted almonds, right next to a healthy rosemary shrub. After a few minutes, its fresh evergreen fragrance prompted me to pluck off a leaf to pop into my mouth along with an almond. Soon we were both plucking away at that poor plant.
It was reassuring to learn that the pairing wasn't anything new. Rosemary is a natural with most roasted nuts. But it's especially nice with pecans. The pairing makes a perfect nibble for welcoming summer this holiday weekend: In late spring, rosemary's new growth is brighter and more forward, refreshing the mellowed flavor last autumn's pecans.
Rosemary Roasted Pecans
Makes about 3½ cups, serving 4 to 6, depending on what other hors d'oeuvres are offered
1 pound shelled whole pecans
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 rounded tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
Salt
1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325° F. Put the pecans in a deep-rimmed pan (I use a 9-x-13-inch sheet cake pan) and shake to level them. Bake in the center of the oven for about 8 minutes, or until they're warmed through. Meanwhile, cut the butter into teaspoon-sized bits. Take the pan from the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 275°-300°.
2. Scatter the butter bits over the pecans and return the pan to the oven. Bake until the butter is melted, about 5 minutes. Take them out and toss until the pecans are well-coated and glossy, then return them to the oven and roast for about 45 minutes, stirring them at 8 minute intervals, until they're almost done. They'll be just a little darker than when they were raw. Break a pecan in half: The center should be distinctly beige but not dark tan.
3. Take the pecans out of the oven, scatter the rosemary over them, and lightly sprinkle with salt. Toss until the herb and salt are evenly distributed, then return them to the oven for 3-5 minutes. Don't let them get any darker: they'll continue to cook after they come out of the oven. Taste and adjust the salt, then lightly toss again.
4. They are delightful served while still warm. Let them sit long enough to lose that intense just-from-the-oven heat, then transfer to warmed serving bowls. If you need to make them ahead, know that they're also lovely served at room temperature. Just let them cool completely and store them in an airtight tin or plastic container.
Photo by Damon Lee Fowler. For more of his wonderful stories and recipes, be sure to visit his website.
