Insider's Guide: Perquimans County North Carolina
Those of us stricken with a passionate love for old houses quickly learn that the best of them aren’t exclusive to Duke of Gloucester Street in Colonial Williamsburg, or Rainbow Row in Charleston, South Carolina. That being said, we also quickly learn that they aren’t exactly plentiful down any country road either. It takes work to discover where the old ones still reside. In that light, one of the first lessons in old house detective work comes with this general rule: Follow the water.
Houses of the age that we all love and toward which we love to gravitate (excluding the Italianates and Victorians and those that came after them) were all built in a day when land navigation was secondary to water. Port cities and the navigable rivers that fed them were the common routes of travel, both for commerce and for socialization. Houses by necessity were built on the banks of the great rivers and along the waterfront streets of seaports large and small.
Once I learned this, the task of identifying possible honey holes for photography became much less complicated. There was now a logical place to begin, providing a better than average chance of turning up exactly the type of inventory we all hope to find. In that light, certain areas of Eastern North Carolina are rich hunting grounds. Today’s Insider’s Guide to Perquimans County is a great example.
The small town of Hertford, NC is also the county seat. Settled first in the late 1600’s by the English, it sits on the banks of the Perquimans River just off of Highway 17. The prettiest way to approach the town is from the north coming south via the historic S-shaped bridge that crosses the river. Once across the bridge, you will be on North Church Street and will immediately begin noticing some of the town’s many 19th century houses that are two-story dwellings with double-tier porches. There are easily a dozen of these in the village. Fortunately, Hertford is small enough that you can take your time and explore each block without the risk of missing anything important. Church and Market Streets hold an abundance of important early houses, and be sure to catch the Creecy-Skinner-Whedbee house at 101 Punch Alley. There are also Queen Annes and Colonial Revivals in Hertford - a small town that packs a big punch where old houses are concerned.
Just north of Hertford and to the east of Highway 17, is a very historically significant community known as Old Neck. It is a small peninsula that stretches along the northern banks of the Perquimans as it heads toward Albemarle Sound, and, in true “follow the water” fashion, it contains a nice collection of great old houses. Turn right off of Highway 17N onto New Hope Road, and then right again onto Old Neck Road. On your right will be the Wilson Jones House, a lovely Federal with Greek Revival additions. The house is visible from Old Neck Road, but is at the end of a long private drive, so zoom lens is recommended from a safe and respectful distance.
Continuing on Old Neck, you will next come to The Fletcher-Skinner house on the left, circa 1814, which is known locally as Swampside. The two-tiered porches popular in this area are on fine display here. There is great visibility from the road, and the house faces south, so there will be good light. Respectful distance is still encouraged.
Past Swampside and a little further down Old Neck Road on the right, you will come to one of my favorite photographic subjects through the years - Cove Grove, circa 1830. Pictured at the top of this post, and also here, it was built by the same family responsible for Land’s End, which is nearby. On several occasions I have been given permission by the family to drive in and get detailed photos, but this house is also down a short private drive. I don’t recommend that you venture in, but there should be enough visibility from the road to get a few great shots with a zoom lens.
Follow Old Neck Road past Cove Grove until it intersects with New Hope, and turn right. Several miles down New Hope (and true to its name) Land’s End, built around the same time as Cove Grove and by the same family, will be on the right at the end of the road. This end of the peninsula is known as Durant’s Neck, and Land’s End is widely regarded as as one of North Carolina’s finest early structures. Fully visible from the road, you should be able to get plenty of great shots without having to intrude on anyone’s privacy.
Coming back up New Hope Road, turn right on Woodville Road and make a pass through Woodville, then come back down Highway 17 and turn right onto Highway 37, which will take you through the village of Winfall - both communities featuring more houses with double-tiered porches and embellished woodwork.
Stay on Highway 37 through Winfall until you come to the small community of Belvidere. Founded by a man named Thomas Newby, Belvidere has several great examples of late 1800’s houses that you don’t want to miss - and you can’t miss them because they are right on the main road. Be sure to stop at Layden’s Country Store for some of the best country ham you will find anywhere. In addition to the Victorians, however, my personal favorite in Belvidere is the house for which the village has been named, built by Newby himself in the late 1700’s. Though barely visible from the road just on the western edge of the village, it is an icon in these parts for it’s unusual architecture, and also because it was for many years the home of famed radio DJ and entertainer, the late Wolfman Jack. The photo of Belvidere, as well as the stylized photo of Land’s End are by my friend, photographer Watson Brown.
While largely a rural county populated here and there by small villages, Perquiman’s County is without a doubt a photographer’s dream - especially if you know where to look. I hope you have enjoyed my insider’s tips. Happy hunting, and stay tuned for the next Insider’s Guide.
Photos of Cove Grove and Swampside by Beth Yarbrough.